I've been home since I got back from Greece - almost 10 day snow - and it has snowed at least half that time. That alone has been an adjustment. The temperature isn't all that cold - hovering around zero - but it is colder then I have been used to. Funny how quickly you can acclimatize to a different climate so quickly, that going back to what is normal for you is such a struggle.
I head back to the UK for my final week 5 Dec. My friends have some fun, post meeting day events lined up: leaving drinks on Thursday, "Winter Wonderland" in Hyde Park, with skating; a true Brit pantomime on Friday. It will be hard to leave them all "forever".
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Friday, November 21, 2008
Impressions of Athens
- Hills
- So many ancient sites, you get overwhelmed
- cats & dogs
- whitewashed houses with red tiled roofs
- friendly people...but...
- ...sometimes they talk to each other like they are yelling and arguing - but they aren't
- very confusing streets, not helped by inconsistant English translations...
Day 4 - Things Do Not Turn Out as Planned
I wake up to another sunny day in Athens. I decide that today I will take the tram down the coast a bit to see some of the famous beaches around Athens.
Except:
Except:
- it starts to rain while I am on the tram
- most of the beaches are pay beaches and closed for the winter
- the public beaches have no amenities - but at least the water is sort of clear
So I decide to come back and go to the Benaki Museum, which I'd missed before. I get to the Benaki, and the ticket counter tells me it is closing early today "because it is 17 November". I tell her I don;t know why that is important. "well", she says, "today is the day we celebrate our release from the dictatorship, except that it always gets out of control and riots start. Everything is closing early, including the metro and the trams and buses."
Hmmmm.....the hotel didn't tell me that when I told them I was going to take the tram down the coast - in fact, they told me how to get there! If it:
- hadn't been rainy; and
- the beaches had been open
I'd have been stranded down there because the trams would have been shut.
The lady lets me go up to the restaurant for some food before they close, so at least I get to see some of the collection on my way up. I then make my way back to the hotel to ask them what I should do about dinner - on my way, I pass increasing police and military presence, all equipped with riot gear. It was not a pleasant feeling.
The hotel assures me that I will be alright, as the street we are on is blocked off at both ends by the police. And, they tell me, the Plaka is usually not impacted by the riots. Given how the day has gone so far, can you blame me for not be reassured by this?
I grab a book and go read. And while I am reading, the heavens open up and the rain comes down for 5 hours solid. It turns out this is a good thing, because it dampens the rioters spirits (sorry - pun fully intended). I am able to go get some food about 9:00 p.m., stopping at the Internet cafe for a bit and then packing up for my return flight to London the next day.
Day 3 - The Hills of Athens
Today was bright and sunny. I took my breakfast out on the terrace and let the sun warm my bones. I decided today would be a good day to visit the hills of Athens.
Athens, near as I can tell, is built in the basin of number of hills which surround it. The 2 most popular hills are Filapaplou [Fill - a - pop - low] and Lykavitos [likka - vi-toes]. But first, I wanted to visit another ancient site that was closed the first day I toured the ancient area, Kerameikos [kera -me-koes], the ancient cemetery. The walk to Kerameikos takes me through the open market on the big day - the Sunday flea market. So the walk was very interesting, and very busy - I think all of Athens was there. I cannot imagine what it must be like in the high season, with the hundreds of thousands of tourists as well as all the Athenians. The flea market has a little bit of everything there; stalls have everything from old used car parts to antiques.
I finally made it to the cemetery. It wasn't quite what I expected. I knew it was in ruins and had been heavily excavated, but I had no idea it held public buildings and the main gates to the city as well. It makes sense, in many ways, because traditionally, the dead were always buried outside city walls. Two main gates into the old city were here and very important gates they were, too. The Dipylion Gate was the start of the Panathenaian Way, an annual procession honoring Athena. The Sacred Gate marked the entrance to the sacred city of Eleusis (hence, the Eleusian Way). What I liked about this area was that nothing was blocked off, so you could really wander into the ruins.
There is a little museum on the grounds, which holds the different types of stele found during excavations in the area. These are basically the different types of tombstones. The area is also known for the tortoises that roam the ruins - and I was luck enough to see two - a larger one and a very small one, warming themselves in the sun.
From the cemetery, I walked to Filapapou Hill, the ancient "hill of the muses". The archaeological grounds are also home to the Pnyx, which anyone who lives in a democratic society should be fascinated to see - it is the original democratic meeting place of the ancient Greek representatives. Pericles used to speak here from the Orator's bema. Today there are 2 retaining walls and the Orator's bema, but the rest is hard to interpret - I wasn't sure if there were seats carved out of the rock, or if the reps just sat on the ground. But it was the birthplace of democracy and that's pretty cool.
From here, you climb a series of confusing paths and switchbacks until you reach the summit. At the summit is a tomb with a huge frieze depicting one Carius Julius Antiochus Philoppous (hence Filapapou), who so loved Athens that he was granted honorary citizenship - this allowed him to build his tomb here. It dates from 116 AD. The main reason to climb this hill is to see the breathtaking views of the Acropolis, and that's why I climbed the hill. Today, because the pollution wasn't too bad, I could see straight out to the sea - the Saronic Gulf.
I hiked back down the hill, walking towards my hotel, where I drop off more shopping I had done on the way. Then I head the opposite direction to Lykavitos Hill.
The walk there took me about 1/2 an hour, past the Parliament buildings and National Gardens. I knew the approach would take me up one of the famous "stair streets" of Athens, but I was still unprepared for what this actually meant. What it meant was easily another 1/2 hour climb up terraced steps. I have to confess, I had to stop and take a break more then once. I nearly gave up, but I'm glad I didn't.
When you get to the top of the steps, you still aren't at the summit of the hill - you are only about 1/2 way. From here, you can continue to walk up winding paths or you can take the funicular. I took the funicular.
At the summit, there is another small Byzantine church (have I mentioned that there are literally hundreds of these in the city?) and the views are spectacular! I arrived as the sun was setting on the sea and out over the city.
I walked back down, then down all those stairs. I met a retired couple at the bottom, who decided after speaking with me not to climb to the top. They told me about a famous restaurant, called Psaras, which means fisherman in Greek. It was perched on the side of the Acropolis. So I made my way there and had a really lovely meal. It was only 7:00 by the time I finished dinner, but all that fresh, sunny air and walking made for one tired girl, so after reading a book for a while, I went to sleep.
Athens, near as I can tell, is built in the basin of number of hills which surround it. The 2 most popular hills are Filapaplou [Fill - a - pop - low] and Lykavitos [likka - vi-toes]. But first, I wanted to visit another ancient site that was closed the first day I toured the ancient area, Kerameikos [kera -me-koes], the ancient cemetery. The walk to Kerameikos takes me through the open market on the big day - the Sunday flea market. So the walk was very interesting, and very busy - I think all of Athens was there. I cannot imagine what it must be like in the high season, with the hundreds of thousands of tourists as well as all the Athenians. The flea market has a little bit of everything there; stalls have everything from old used car parts to antiques.
I finally made it to the cemetery. It wasn't quite what I expected. I knew it was in ruins and had been heavily excavated, but I had no idea it held public buildings and the main gates to the city as well. It makes sense, in many ways, because traditionally, the dead were always buried outside city walls. Two main gates into the old city were here and very important gates they were, too. The Dipylion Gate was the start of the Panathenaian Way, an annual procession honoring Athena. The Sacred Gate marked the entrance to the sacred city of Eleusis (hence, the Eleusian Way). What I liked about this area was that nothing was blocked off, so you could really wander into the ruins.
There is a little museum on the grounds, which holds the different types of stele found during excavations in the area. These are basically the different types of tombstones. The area is also known for the tortoises that roam the ruins - and I was luck enough to see two - a larger one and a very small one, warming themselves in the sun.
From the cemetery, I walked to Filapapou Hill, the ancient "hill of the muses". The archaeological grounds are also home to the Pnyx, which anyone who lives in a democratic society should be fascinated to see - it is the original democratic meeting place of the ancient Greek representatives. Pericles used to speak here from the Orator's bema. Today there are 2 retaining walls and the Orator's bema, but the rest is hard to interpret - I wasn't sure if there were seats carved out of the rock, or if the reps just sat on the ground. But it was the birthplace of democracy and that's pretty cool.
From here, you climb a series of confusing paths and switchbacks until you reach the summit. At the summit is a tomb with a huge frieze depicting one Carius Julius Antiochus Philoppous (hence Filapapou), who so loved Athens that he was granted honorary citizenship - this allowed him to build his tomb here. It dates from 116 AD. The main reason to climb this hill is to see the breathtaking views of the Acropolis, and that's why I climbed the hill. Today, because the pollution wasn't too bad, I could see straight out to the sea - the Saronic Gulf.
I hiked back down the hill, walking towards my hotel, where I drop off more shopping I had done on the way. Then I head the opposite direction to Lykavitos Hill.
The walk there took me about 1/2 an hour, past the Parliament buildings and National Gardens. I knew the approach would take me up one of the famous "stair streets" of Athens, but I was still unprepared for what this actually meant. What it meant was easily another 1/2 hour climb up terraced steps. I have to confess, I had to stop and take a break more then once. I nearly gave up, but I'm glad I didn't.
When you get to the top of the steps, you still aren't at the summit of the hill - you are only about 1/2 way. From here, you can continue to walk up winding paths or you can take the funicular. I took the funicular.
At the summit, there is another small Byzantine church (have I mentioned that there are literally hundreds of these in the city?) and the views are spectacular! I arrived as the sun was setting on the sea and out over the city.
I walked back down, then down all those stairs. I met a retired couple at the bottom, who decided after speaking with me not to climb to the top. They told me about a famous restaurant, called Psaras, which means fisherman in Greek. It was perched on the side of the Acropolis. So I made my way there and had a really lovely meal. It was only 7:00 by the time I finished dinner, but all that fresh, sunny air and walking made for one tired girl, so after reading a book for a while, I went to sleep.
Day 2 - Museum Day
I woke up to aching feet and rain - a perfect day to visit the museums. I had 2 key museums on my list: the National Archaeological Museum and the Benaki Museum. I decided to go to the National museum first.
I was overwhelmed.
There was so much to see and all of it dedicated solely to Hellenic artefacts. I saw Cycladic, Mycenaean, Minoan; vases & pottery from all eras, gold masks, frescoes from Akritori - before I knew it, 4 hours had passed. this meant I had no time to go see the Benaki.
It had stopped raining by then, so I wandered the streets of Monastiriki (a famous flea market) and the Plaka to buy souvenirs - mostly small bronzes - and Christmas gifts.
At dinner, I made a new friend - a small cat, maybe 1 year old. A light brown tabby. I fed it some of the meat from my plate (I couldn't eat it all anyway) and while sipping my wine, kitty crawled into my lap and went to sleep. What interested me most about this was the reactions of the people around me. the Greeks - including the staff - did not care and smiled at the scene. but other North Americans were not impressed. The couple behind me kept pushing it away when it had come up to them earlier, and the woman said - upon seeing the cat in my lap that I'd "catch fleas". I told her humans don't actually catch fleas (we get bit, but not infested with them) and no one had actually died from it. Sadly, I had to let kitty go - being a Greek kitty, I doubt he'd have adjusted well to a Canadian winter.
I was overwhelmed.
There was so much to see and all of it dedicated solely to Hellenic artefacts. I saw Cycladic, Mycenaean, Minoan; vases & pottery from all eras, gold masks, frescoes from Akritori - before I knew it, 4 hours had passed. this meant I had no time to go see the Benaki.
It had stopped raining by then, so I wandered the streets of Monastiriki (a famous flea market) and the Plaka to buy souvenirs - mostly small bronzes - and Christmas gifts.
At dinner, I made a new friend - a small cat, maybe 1 year old. A light brown tabby. I fed it some of the meat from my plate (I couldn't eat it all anyway) and while sipping my wine, kitty crawled into my lap and went to sleep. What interested me most about this was the reactions of the people around me. the Greeks - including the staff - did not care and smiled at the scene. but other North Americans were not impressed. The couple behind me kept pushing it away when it had come up to them earlier, and the woman said - upon seeing the cat in my lap that I'd "catch fleas". I told her humans don't actually catch fleas (we get bit, but not infested with them) and no one had actually died from it. Sadly, I had to let kitty go - being a Greek kitty, I doubt he'd have adjusted well to a Canadian winter.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Day 1- The Ancient City
I do right away what I came here to do - go to the Acropolis. It isn't far from my hotel, maybe 15 minute walk, taking me through the back streets of the Plaka. The little shops are all just starting to open (they open later here, some not until 11:00 a.m.).
I buy my ticket and start my ascent. I know now this won't be a quick hike up, and it will be steep in places. After all, I saw the night before just how high the hill actually is. The lower part of the hill that you start at is the South slope, and it is mostly under excavation. I see two theatres, the smaller, the Theatre of Dionysos and the larger Odeon of Herodes (the Herodion). Next, a bit further up the slope is the Temple of Asklepios (the Asklepion).
After a somewhat gentle and winding path up, there is no escaping the final ascent up to the top. They try to grade it as easily as possible, but I am sweating a bit by the time I get there and my legs are screaming at me. I tell them to shut up and push on up the steps which come after and take me to the main entrance, the Propylaia. It is under conservation, but you still get to see the basic layout. It must have been an awesome sight to the ancient Greeks - it still is, even under scaffolding. It is essentially a gateway, with triple rows of columns on each side of the walkway. Tough looking girl guards are posted here to make sure you pay attention to the signs not to stray from the path and not to touch the ancient marble.
Once through the Propylaia, you come to the Temple of Athena Nike, which was completely covered in scaffolding, as it is also being conserved. Despite my disappointment at not being able to get a clear view of the temple, I have to confess it was very interesting to see the work that the conservers are doing. I was fortunate to be able to chat with a few of them - they were quite happy to talk to me. Most of the work involves stabilising the buildings, filling cracks, etc, as well, of course, as cleaning them of the infamous Athenian pollution that is eating away at them. Another conservationist was carefully piecing together bits that had come off a large marble block, like working a giant puzzle.
The next big building you come to is the Parthenon, the largest structure on the hill. It is another temple dedicated to Athena, patroness of Athens. The largest ever known statue of Athena used to be in this building, but it is long gone. I can only imagine what it must have been like to enter this space: sadly, you can't enter any of the temples on the Acropolis any longer, so my imagination will have to suffice.
On the north side of the hill is the Erechtheon, which is best known for it's porch with the Caryatids - statues of women who support the porch roof. Originally, the building was built to house and protect immovable objects:
- A snake pit
- a rock that Poseidon struck with his trident
- a saltwater well
- an olive tree, supposedly from Athena herself as a gift to the people of Athens
Finally, I leave the hill completely and walk to the ancient Agora (the marketplace). It's a little difficult to interpret this now, as it is a jumble of stones, but at least you can get up close to them. There is a lovely little Byzantine church on the site, too. The overall space is massive. The Stoa of Attalos has been rebuilt as truthfully as they think it was, and it now houses the tiny Agora Museum, which is filled with artefacts and statues found in the agora excavation. It is arranged chronologically, so it was fascinating to see how small items, like oil lamps and vases, had changed over the centuries.
Next, I walked down a street called Adrianou to the ruins of the Roman Agora and a building called the Temple of the Winds. The Roman agora seems alot smaller then the ancient agora, but is easier to interpret. The Tower of the Winds was once a complex building that had a massive weather vane, sundial and water clock, but none of these seem to be in existence any longer and sadly, you can't even see into the tower any longer.
One of the things that struck me as I walked around were all the cats & dogs roaming. I have come to refer to them as the temple cats & dogs. They were all over the Acropolis, and both Agoras. They didn't pay most people any attention - except me - I must have a face animals like. I didn't have any food, so it wasn't that. In the Roman Agora, two of the dogs came up to me and nuzzled my hands. I decided to let them be my guides and they seemed happy to be the guides, as I followed them on their tour of the agora. The animals are obviously cared for by someone - I saw a small cave in the Roam agora with a blanket and bowl with water in it; there was a wood structure that had been built for the cats with a soft covering on the floor and some water nearby, too. They are very well tolerated.
I decided to locate two more sites: the Anafiotika and the Bath house of the Winds.
The Anafiotika was settled by Aegean craftsmen, despite a ban on building in that area in 1834. Previous to that, it had been declared holy ground by the Oracle at Delphi. Today it is a picturesque part of the Plaka, quite well maintained, with whitewashed buildings set on the side of the hill.
The Bath House of the Winds is a Turkish bathhouse (hamman). Apparently, it is in very good repair and you can see how it operated when it was built. sadly, it was closed the day I went to see it and I never did get in.
So I continued to wander in the Plaka, taking in the atmosphere, until I found my way back to the Hotel - easier said then done. For dinner, I located an Asian noodle house. yes, yes, i know, this is hardly taking in the Greek culture, but it was cheap and quick and very yummy. Then I located an Internet cafe and sent emails to my husband to let him know I was safe & sound.
Athens, Greece - Arrival
I'm here. And I'm not sure what I expected, so I can't be sure if my expectations have been met or not.
Let's start.
On the plane, I read up on my history of Athens. What interested me were the words...for example, in Greek, tyrannos meant a person who grabbed power rather then inheriting it or being appointed by his peers. They may well have been a benovelant leader and brought about many positive changes, as happened. Of course, this is the root of the English word tyrant, which pretty much has a negative connotation.
Prague was a challenge to read signs in - Greece is almost impossible! The character sets are completely different - I can now truly say "It's all Greek to me". There is alot of English - I credit this to the Olympics.
Visually, it's a complete mix of ancient and modern. The metro from the airport was very mod and very clean. I get off at Syntagma Square, where Parliament sits and very close to my hotel in Plaka, the old town, which sits at the foot of the Acropolis. The square around Parliament is a bustling center of activities and people, even well after 8:00 p.m. when I arrive. It has buskers and hustlers and dogs chasing cars on the busy streets. Yes, dogs. They didn't seem to belong to anyone, but they were macho dogs, not the small toy dogs you see in London. I must have smelled foreign, because a few decided to follow me for a while. No one seemed worried about this, so I decided not to either.
My hotel is tucked inconspicously on Mitropoleous street, right across from the Athens Cathedral, which I later learn is the seat of the Orthodox faith in Greece. This is something else I see alot of - Orthodox clergy in their long black robes and some wearing tall, squared hats on the streets all around. My hotel promises some rooms with views of the Acropolis, but as I expected, mine is not one of those. This turns out to be a good thing, because it means I am protected from the street noise, although I am still awoken every morning from the sounds of church bells starting at 6:00 a.m. The room itself is clean and basic. The building it is in is a historic 19th century former home, so I have 15 ft ceilings and the window faces the central courtyard. On the top floor is the breakfast room with a terrace, and it does indeed have spectacular views of the Acropolis lit up for the night.
So, it's my first day - what to do first? Well, eat, of course. I ask the hotel receptionist to point me in the direction I need to go and then promptly get lost, because this is the Plaka area, and the streets may be the most confusing I have ever come across. But it also means there is no shortage of restaurants and I find one with a pleasant and spacious outdoor patio. The house white is good and the lamb souvlaki is good, too.
Let's start.
On the plane, I read up on my history of Athens. What interested me were the words...for example, in Greek, tyrannos meant a person who grabbed power rather then inheriting it or being appointed by his peers. They may well have been a benovelant leader and brought about many positive changes, as happened. Of course, this is the root of the English word tyrant, which pretty much has a negative connotation.
Prague was a challenge to read signs in - Greece is almost impossible! The character sets are completely different - I can now truly say "It's all Greek to me". There is alot of English - I credit this to the Olympics.
Visually, it's a complete mix of ancient and modern. The metro from the airport was very mod and very clean. I get off at Syntagma Square, where Parliament sits and very close to my hotel in Plaka, the old town, which sits at the foot of the Acropolis. The square around Parliament is a bustling center of activities and people, even well after 8:00 p.m. when I arrive. It has buskers and hustlers and dogs chasing cars on the busy streets. Yes, dogs. They didn't seem to belong to anyone, but they were macho dogs, not the small toy dogs you see in London. I must have smelled foreign, because a few decided to follow me for a while. No one seemed worried about this, so I decided not to either.
My hotel is tucked inconspicously on Mitropoleous street, right across from the Athens Cathedral, which I later learn is the seat of the Orthodox faith in Greece. This is something else I see alot of - Orthodox clergy in their long black robes and some wearing tall, squared hats on the streets all around. My hotel promises some rooms with views of the Acropolis, but as I expected, mine is not one of those. This turns out to be a good thing, because it means I am protected from the street noise, although I am still awoken every morning from the sounds of church bells starting at 6:00 a.m. The room itself is clean and basic. The building it is in is a historic 19th century former home, so I have 15 ft ceilings and the window faces the central courtyard. On the top floor is the breakfast room with a terrace, and it does indeed have spectacular views of the Acropolis lit up for the night.
So, it's my first day - what to do first? Well, eat, of course. I ask the hotel receptionist to point me in the direction I need to go and then promptly get lost, because this is the Plaka area, and the streets may be the most confusing I have ever come across. But it also means there is no shortage of restaurants and I find one with a pleasant and spacious outdoor patio. The house white is good and the lamb souvlaki is good, too.
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Last Weekend in London
So, it's my last weekend in London. What a whirlwind 20 months!
I have been so fortunate to have had this opportunity, but I confess, I am looking forward to coming back to Canada. I realize each time I come back how much I miss the open spaces, the sound of crickets in summer, the colors of the seasons.
London is great in many, many ways, but there is no getting around the fact it is a busy city. The good things about this are that there is always something to do. the bad thing about this is it always feels crowded. I've discovered that I am a Canadian big city gal, not an international sized big city gal. I would never have guessed that prior to this experience!
I am so looking forward to:
I have been so fortunate to have had this opportunity, but I confess, I am looking forward to coming back to Canada. I realize each time I come back how much I miss the open spaces, the sound of crickets in summer, the colors of the seasons.
London is great in many, many ways, but there is no getting around the fact it is a busy city. The good things about this are that there is always something to do. the bad thing about this is it always feels crowded. I've discovered that I am a Canadian big city gal, not an international sized big city gal. I would never have guessed that prior to this experience!
I am so looking forward to:
- sleeping in my own bed
- looking out into my large back yard and watching the birds and rabbits and squirrels and chipmunks
- watching spring bloom
- NOT getting on a plane anytime soon!
- Reconnecting with friends and family in the same time zone
I won't miss:
- hearing drunken people shouting on the streets after they've left the pubs,
- the seemingly constant sound of sirens on the streets
- the constant crush of people, people, everywhere
- Oxford Street & Oxford Circus - insane
I will miss:
- Being able to stop for a drink on practically any street corner and being able to take my drink outside if there are no seats inside or of it is too loud and no one cares
- Wandering through Covent Garden and into Soho
- Drinking coffee and talking and walking with friends along the Albert Embankment
- Seeing a play in Shakespeare's Globe
- A really efficient subway system (although I won't miss the crowds and the frequent delays and breakdowns)
- being so close to Europe (I wish I had been able to take further advantage of travel there)
So, it is with mixed emotions that I prepare for my return to Canada - but first - Athens, Greece for 5 days!
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
5 November - Musings
Today is the 5th of November - Bonfire Night in the UK. This is also known as Guy Fawkes Day - the day the English celebrate that Guy Fawkes did not successfully blow up parliament and the day the Scots - so it told - celebrate that he at least tried.
It is celebrated by fireworks and bonfires and traditionally, the burning of an effigy. I was suppose to go with some gals from work, but we all cancelled, because it is that chilly, wet weather London is known for. Besides, I can see the fireworks from my flat, across the city.
Today there is also happiness at the results of the US presidential election, so part of me thinks it seems the fireworks are in celebration of this, too.
I just have to say, as a native born American, I feel proud again to be reminded of what makes my birth country great.
It is celebrated by fireworks and bonfires and traditionally, the burning of an effigy. I was suppose to go with some gals from work, but we all cancelled, because it is that chilly, wet weather London is known for. Besides, I can see the fireworks from my flat, across the city.
Today there is also happiness at the results of the US presidential election, so part of me thinks it seems the fireworks are in celebration of this, too.
I just have to say, as a native born American, I feel proud again to be reminded of what makes my birth country great.
Chester, UK
I decided to spend the weekend in Chester last weekend (1 - 2 November). I heard it was a lovely Tudor town. In my mind, it was north of Manchester, so I could't figure out why websites often mentioned going into Northern Wales. I finally set myself straight - Chester is SW of Manchester and almost due south of Liverpool.
Part of the reason I chose Chester was because I wanted a small town that was easy to do in a day and a half, and because I had never been to this part of the UK before. Chester seemed to fit the bill.
Chester is best known for it's Tudor "Rows". "The Rows" are Tudor and Tudor styled (Victorian built) galleried buildings which are filled with shops. I'd read that there were a number of independently owned shops, but I found mostly high street shops that are found everywhere in the UK. The few independent shops I saw were good, though, and I confess, I left with 3 new pieces of jewelry.
My train didn't arrive until early afternoon, so I only had a few hours to wander the Rows before I my scheduled spa appointment. Three hours of quiet bliss! I had intended to go on the Ghost Walking tour, but 2 things prevented this: one, the location to meet the tour and pay was not where it had been advertised, and two, after 1 hour of a full body massage and 1 hour of reflexology, I was a puddle of goo. I ate dinner and slept well.
The next morning, I wandered down to the Roman amphitheatre, which was once 4 stories high and large enough to seat 70,000 people. It is only about 25% excavated. Next was a walk around Saint John the Baptist church - a lovely Norman Church, part of which is in ruins. One very interesting feature of the eastern ruins is a wood coffin set high in the stone walls, with the words Dust to dust written in it. I don't think it was ever used, but there doesn't seem to be any known reason why it was put there.
Next, a walk along the Walls. The Walls are the original walls of the old Roman city and are the most complete anywhere in the UK - about 2 miles of walls. I didn't walk the entire circumference, but enjoyed the views of the Welsh hills and the River Dee. Finally, a tour around Chester Cathedral, which used to be a monastry.
I continued to wander and then walked to the train station to go back to London.
Part of the reason I chose Chester was because I wanted a small town that was easy to do in a day and a half, and because I had never been to this part of the UK before. Chester seemed to fit the bill.
Chester is best known for it's Tudor "Rows". "The Rows" are Tudor and Tudor styled (Victorian built) galleried buildings which are filled with shops. I'd read that there were a number of independently owned shops, but I found mostly high street shops that are found everywhere in the UK. The few independent shops I saw were good, though, and I confess, I left with 3 new pieces of jewelry.
My train didn't arrive until early afternoon, so I only had a few hours to wander the Rows before I my scheduled spa appointment. Three hours of quiet bliss! I had intended to go on the Ghost Walking tour, but 2 things prevented this: one, the location to meet the tour and pay was not where it had been advertised, and two, after 1 hour of a full body massage and 1 hour of reflexology, I was a puddle of goo. I ate dinner and slept well.
The next morning, I wandered down to the Roman amphitheatre, which was once 4 stories high and large enough to seat 70,000 people. It is only about 25% excavated. Next was a walk around Saint John the Baptist church - a lovely Norman Church, part of which is in ruins. One very interesting feature of the eastern ruins is a wood coffin set high in the stone walls, with the words Dust to dust written in it. I don't think it was ever used, but there doesn't seem to be any known reason why it was put there.
Next, a walk along the Walls. The Walls are the original walls of the old Roman city and are the most complete anywhere in the UK - about 2 miles of walls. I didn't walk the entire circumference, but enjoyed the views of the Welsh hills and the River Dee. Finally, a tour around Chester Cathedral, which used to be a monastry.
I continued to wander and then walked to the train station to go back to London.
Glastonbury
When I mentioned that I was going to spend the day in Glastonbury to some work colleagues, I got various wrinkled noses and negative comments about it being just a big field. And certainly, nowadays, it is best known for the grand-daddy of all UK outdoor festivals, the Glastonbury Festival. "Glasto" as we know it today has been around since the early '70's, but as early as as 1914, there was a classical music festival in or near Glastonbury.
Over the years, Glastonbury has developed a reputation for new age/pagan/wiccan tolerance, but the truth is, it has been a place of spiritual significance for years. It is the intersection of several ley lines and the Tor - a steep hill - has been used a place of worship since early man.
Knowing all this, I wasn't sure what to expect, but Catherine, my friend from work (and probably a distant cousin, we have determined!) used to work near the town, and offered to drive there. It's a bit of a pain to take trains and buses there, which is why I hadn't gone before - so I happily took her up on the offer. She came to get me at 8:00 a.m. on a Saturday morning and off we went.
Catherine & I like to talk, and so it shouldn't be a surprise that the combination of that and my poor understanding of the atlas' finer details, meant we ended passing the turn off to Glastonbury. This took us about 1 hour out of our way, but it took us through tiny hamlets where the walls of gardens were literally inches from the passenger side of the car.
In Glastonbury, we walked up the steep steps to the Tor, where only the tower of a former church remains. It was built on the site of an ancient worship site. the Tor is one of the most iconic symbols of Glastonbury and the views - despite the cold wind - were wonderful. Back down the hill, we next went to the Chalice Wells Gardens, a beautiful 4 acre garden, where sulfur springs bubble. It's a a lovely space and very peaceful. We filled our small containers from the Red fountain, which is reputed to have healing properties.
Next, we went to Glastonbury Abbey. The Abbey is now in ruins, as it was torn down in the reign of Henry VIII in the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The ruins show a Abbey that must have been a significant sized place of worship - I think it might rival the size of Westminster.
We had something to eat and after walking up & down the streets, filled with shops dedicated to wicca, druids and other spiritual beliefs (North American Indian was oddly popular for this area), we went back to the car and drive back to London.
It doesn't sound like much, but it was a thoroughly enjoyable day and all the walking and fresh air did my soul a world of good. One thing I don't like about London is how crowded it always seems - so spending the day in a quieter part of the country was beneficial to me. I think it helped me in the mental shift to prepare to come back to Canada.
Over the years, Glastonbury has developed a reputation for new age/pagan/wiccan tolerance, but the truth is, it has been a place of spiritual significance for years. It is the intersection of several ley lines and the Tor - a steep hill - has been used a place of worship since early man.
Knowing all this, I wasn't sure what to expect, but Catherine, my friend from work (and probably a distant cousin, we have determined!) used to work near the town, and offered to drive there. It's a bit of a pain to take trains and buses there, which is why I hadn't gone before - so I happily took her up on the offer. She came to get me at 8:00 a.m. on a Saturday morning and off we went.
Catherine & I like to talk, and so it shouldn't be a surprise that the combination of that and my poor understanding of the atlas' finer details, meant we ended passing the turn off to Glastonbury. This took us about 1 hour out of our way, but it took us through tiny hamlets where the walls of gardens were literally inches from the passenger side of the car.
In Glastonbury, we walked up the steep steps to the Tor, where only the tower of a former church remains. It was built on the site of an ancient worship site. the Tor is one of the most iconic symbols of Glastonbury and the views - despite the cold wind - were wonderful. Back down the hill, we next went to the Chalice Wells Gardens, a beautiful 4 acre garden, where sulfur springs bubble. It's a a lovely space and very peaceful. We filled our small containers from the Red fountain, which is reputed to have healing properties.
Next, we went to Glastonbury Abbey. The Abbey is now in ruins, as it was torn down in the reign of Henry VIII in the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The ruins show a Abbey that must have been a significant sized place of worship - I think it might rival the size of Westminster.
We had something to eat and after walking up & down the streets, filled with shops dedicated to wicca, druids and other spiritual beliefs (North American Indian was oddly popular for this area), we went back to the car and drive back to London.
It doesn't sound like much, but it was a thoroughly enjoyable day and all the walking and fresh air did my soul a world of good. One thing I don't like about London is how crowded it always seems - so spending the day in a quieter part of the country was beneficial to me. I think it helped me in the mental shift to prepare to come back to Canada.
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