I left Delhi just over 48 hours ago. I so glad to be home. Coming home has made me so appreciative of what I have here in Canada: clean water that I can drink from the tap, space to move, not having to haggle every time I go into a shop.
The Delhi international airport is lovely...it is everything that Delhi is not! Spacious, clean, relaxed. I'd forgot to mention that when I first arrived in Delhi, that the customs hall was so pretty! I spend a fair bit of time in airports, so let me say that if I know one thing, it is airports! The Delhi customs hall has this massive wall with discs that are convex and concave, a copper colour. And these hand sculptures on those discs, in gestures, typically "Indian". Parna told me they are the hand movements from an Indian dance of welcome. Departing gave me the opportunity to see more and I can say - it was the most relaxed I was in Delhi the entire time I was there. Soaring ceilings, quite spaces, good food.
I'd said in my first post that people were almost deferential. Well, the longer I stayed, the less this was so. Example: I needed an ATM so I could get cash for the rest of the week. It was after 9.30 at night, so quite dark. I asked the gal at the front desk where I could find one. She didn't even look up at me - said there was just a short walk away - 2 or 3 kms "over that way" vaguely waving her hand.
Let me set the scene better, so you really understand how completely inappropriate that answer was: It was dark. There are no street lights around. The roads, as I have mentioned, are kinda crazy with drivers and stray dogs. The location of the hotel is set across from a field of garbage with shanty huts on it. And she is telling a female tourist to just walk across that field to get out cash - probably alot of it, given that most Indian purchases start with a minimum of 100 rupees - and walk back by herself.
Example #2: I tried to get internet connection in my hotel room. I called to the front desk and asked how I got this. I was told I had to buy a card. "Ok, where do I buy a card?" "Oh, around, m'am." So I asked Parna when we were out, and she had no idea what the hotel was talking about. So, when we got back that night, I stopped in person at the front desk and asked again. And they had the cards there for purchase. ??????? Why didn't they tell me that when I called and asked originally?
____________________
I ended up seeing cattle eating garbage on the side of the roads, alongside hogs and dogs. No elephants, though. Tons of those motorized rickshaws, men pulling carts both on foot and bicycles. Women in saris of all colours. Food stands on the sides of roads. How the weather impacts the traffic so dramatically, like rain and fog. The smells - not all unpleasant, but definitely a different smell.
I am thankful for the adventure and thankful for the generosity of Parna, who spent pretty much every day with me for 8 days. But I am so thankful to be home.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Delhi, Day 2
Today Parna took me to see the Red Fort, which was built by Shah Jahan in the mid 1600's. It is named the Red Fort, because, well, it is a fort and the stone used for the exterior walls and main public buildings are red. It is known as "Lal Quila" to the Indians.
There is alot of history to the Red Fort that I won't go into here. It was in use until the mid 1800's when the British used it for a Military base. In 2007 it was classed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
I thought I would be bored because it would all be red and fort-like. But it wasn't like that inside. The private buildings, for the most part, where all white, dotted amongst vast grounds with pools. Because the stone is so old and porous, they don't fill the pools with water and run the fountains anymore, but Parna said when she was younger, maybe as recently as 20 years ago, she visited with school and all the pools were filled and the fountains running. She remembers monkeys all over the place, too. Sadly, no water and no monkeys now.
Originally, the ceilings of the small buildings, especially the private quarters of the queens, were ornately decorated, sometimes with jewels. The carvings and tile work that remains is still beautiful - I can only imagine what it must have looked like "back in the day".
It was hot today, 28c, and by this point, I was running on three hours sleep. So I wasn't up to my usual perky self.
The drive into Old Delhi was slow. We did not see any cattle, camels or elephants. The difference between New and Old Delhi was apparent almost immediately. The streets of Old Delhi are what you'd expect from a city developed over 500 years ago: tiny. To exacerbate the already crowded roads, today was market day, so part of the road was filled with people selling stuff and pedestrians walking all over. The stray dogs, of course, added to the general mayhem. In all, it took us over 2 hours to drive the 30 kilometers from the hotel to the Red Fort, in traffic that at some points was mostly stopped. Which only gave the beggars who saw me more time to stand in the road and pound on the car window. We arrived at the Fort early, though, and once through security (full pat down by female guards and thorough purse inspections), the grounds were calm and quiet - and I needed it by then.
Observation day 2: I described Delhi as a "jumbled city" in yesterday's post. Today, I'd describe it more as a city constantly under construction, re-construction and destruction. Seriously. We were driving down one road, before we got into the old city, and there were all these large building that were clearly being deconstructed. I remarked that there seemed to be alot of building going on. Parna told me that there had been a period of illegal building going on by land owners. The particular stretch of road we were on was once the hub of Haute Couture - many of the major fashion designers had once had illegal shops and workrooms in those buildings, and because of the way the buildings were built, and where, they weren't paying taxes and were taking the free water and electricity that was meant for the small farmers right across the road. So the gov't kicked them out and started - but never competed - the process of tearing the buildings down so they couldn't be used any further. It gives the landscape a horrid look, though - as if there was a major war just recently and the buildings had all been hit by shrapnel.
I used to work with a gal on one of my projects who moved to Hyderabad - much further south - to train call center staff on North American standards of handling customers. She met and married an Indian man and now lives there full time with their 2 year old daughter. She warned me that I was in for a shock, and she was right - but I'm not sure there is any way to be prepared for the reality of it all. It was crowded when I lived in London, but this.....is a whole new crazy.
As type that last line, I realize I may be sounding negative about my experiences so far. I'm not. I am so thankful that I've had this opportunity and extremely thankful for Parna's hospitality.
Well, jet lag has hit me hard. As I mentioned earlier, I had looked forward to a full night's sleep last night - but woke up at 3 a.m. and tossed and turned after that. So I finally got up and showered, had a leisurely breakfast and read a bit. That means by now - at almost 10.pm., I am exhausted, and that includes a 3 hour nap. So, a late dinner and off to bed for me....there is not likely to be any more site seeing stuff, as it is work, work, work for the rest of the week, and then a 28 hour day of traveling back home...no business class to look to this time 'round. :(
There is alot of history to the Red Fort that I won't go into here. It was in use until the mid 1800's when the British used it for a Military base. In 2007 it was classed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
I thought I would be bored because it would all be red and fort-like. But it wasn't like that inside. The private buildings, for the most part, where all white, dotted amongst vast grounds with pools. Because the stone is so old and porous, they don't fill the pools with water and run the fountains anymore, but Parna said when she was younger, maybe as recently as 20 years ago, she visited with school and all the pools were filled and the fountains running. She remembers monkeys all over the place, too. Sadly, no water and no monkeys now.
Originally, the ceilings of the small buildings, especially the private quarters of the queens, were ornately decorated, sometimes with jewels. The carvings and tile work that remains is still beautiful - I can only imagine what it must have looked like "back in the day".
It was hot today, 28c, and by this point, I was running on three hours sleep. So I wasn't up to my usual perky self.
The drive into Old Delhi was slow. We did not see any cattle, camels or elephants. The difference between New and Old Delhi was apparent almost immediately. The streets of Old Delhi are what you'd expect from a city developed over 500 years ago: tiny. To exacerbate the already crowded roads, today was market day, so part of the road was filled with people selling stuff and pedestrians walking all over. The stray dogs, of course, added to the general mayhem. In all, it took us over 2 hours to drive the 30 kilometers from the hotel to the Red Fort, in traffic that at some points was mostly stopped. Which only gave the beggars who saw me more time to stand in the road and pound on the car window. We arrived at the Fort early, though, and once through security (full pat down by female guards and thorough purse inspections), the grounds were calm and quiet - and I needed it by then.
Observation day 2: I described Delhi as a "jumbled city" in yesterday's post. Today, I'd describe it more as a city constantly under construction, re-construction and destruction. Seriously. We were driving down one road, before we got into the old city, and there were all these large building that were clearly being deconstructed. I remarked that there seemed to be alot of building going on. Parna told me that there had been a period of illegal building going on by land owners. The particular stretch of road we were on was once the hub of Haute Couture - many of the major fashion designers had once had illegal shops and workrooms in those buildings, and because of the way the buildings were built, and where, they weren't paying taxes and were taking the free water and electricity that was meant for the small farmers right across the road. So the gov't kicked them out and started - but never competed - the process of tearing the buildings down so they couldn't be used any further. It gives the landscape a horrid look, though - as if there was a major war just recently and the buildings had all been hit by shrapnel.
I used to work with a gal on one of my projects who moved to Hyderabad - much further south - to train call center staff on North American standards of handling customers. She met and married an Indian man and now lives there full time with their 2 year old daughter. She warned me that I was in for a shock, and she was right - but I'm not sure there is any way to be prepared for the reality of it all. It was crowded when I lived in London, but this.....is a whole new crazy.
As type that last line, I realize I may be sounding negative about my experiences so far. I'm not. I am so thankful that I've had this opportunity and extremely thankful for Parna's hospitality.
Well, jet lag has hit me hard. As I mentioned earlier, I had looked forward to a full night's sleep last night - but woke up at 3 a.m. and tossed and turned after that. So I finally got up and showered, had a leisurely breakfast and read a bit. That means by now - at almost 10.pm., I am exhausted, and that includes a 3 hour nap. So, a late dinner and off to bed for me....there is not likely to be any more site seeing stuff, as it is work, work, work for the rest of the week, and then a 28 hour day of traveling back home...no business class to look to this time 'round. :(
First Impressions: Delhi, India
Delhi is not a pretty city. It is a jumbled city, where you find new buildings, like the hotel I am in, right across the street from empty lots filled with rubble and shanties on them.
Stray dogs are everywhere and pretty fearless. I fear for them, but my hostess assures me they are generally not killed or moved away.
Cars, cars, cars, some of the older models still spewing fumes that choke the air.
Traffic, even at 2:00 a.m., is horrid. Lanes are a just a suggestion, horn blowing is required, whether to say "watch out" "don't get in my lane" "I'm moving", or, presumably, just to say "hi". I never know why the horn, so I am surmising.
Beggars who see you in a car and literally bang on the windows so hard, you fear it might break. My hostess tells me it is only because they see a tourist in the car.
All kinds of people. Delhi has 18 million people in it. There is no escape, and the concept of personal space is completely alien to them. People bathing in the mud puddles. I only hope they don't drink it as well.
Security checks for vehicles are everywhere: to leave the airport, to cross state lines, even to get into the hotel parking lot/drop off area we had to stop, open the trunk, have a mirror stuck under the car to see if there was...what? Bombs? People? I'm not sure and afraid to ask. My hostess says this has been par for the course since the Mumbai bombings.
The understanding that you will be charged more just for being a "tourist" whether you are there on business or not. Seriously - they have separate (and mostly marked) prices for "Indians" and "Tourists". Indians will pay 10 Rupees to enter the Red Fort, Tourists pay 250. At least they don't hide it.
___________
Still.....people are nice. Polite for the most part....no, that's not the word....deferential. But there is no escaping that as a female tourist, I attract alot of attention, not all of it good. I see a few female tourists wandering about on their own, and wonder how they feel. Maybe it doesn't bother them, like it probably wouldn't have bothered me 20 years ago.
I have been fortunate enough that my India colleague has been so gracious to spend most of today showing me around, and will do so again tomorrow. Today we started late - about 3.30 - and we went to a crafts shopping area. So lovely! Beautiful cloths for saris, bed covers, table linens, silk scarves, wooden and brass Buddhas, elephants, Hindu gods and goddesses...a riot of color everywhere I turned. My colleague, Parna, loves bargaining - she says it relaxes her! and so I was able to get most things at half off the price being "suggested" - there were only a few items I walked away from. I only spent about 2,000 Rupees - that's maybe $50.00 We ate in another section of town, an area called Khan. I have no idea where the crafts market was, but it was huge.
Tomorrow, she is taking me to the Red Fort, one of the oldest settlements in Delhi, in the heart of Old Delhi. It is a Mughal fort, built by the first Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan. If we have time, we may go to Humayan's Tomb, which looks like a smaller Taj Mahal (it was built about 100 years before the Taj, and is commonly believed to have served at the model for the Taj, although, unlike the Taj, it is built of red sandstone and not white marble). Parna tells me that on the road to the Red Fort, we are likely to see cattle and camels on the highway with the cars, and "if we are lucky, an elephant". Now that would be a site to see!
I am tired. It's been 15 years since I've traveled 25 hours to get someplace, and I've forgotten how much it drains you, especially when you yourself are 15 years older. If you are curious - Delhi is 10.5 hours ahead of EDT. It was odd calling Colin to tell him I'd arrived safely and going to bed shortly and it was just the start of his day...
Stray dogs are everywhere and pretty fearless. I fear for them, but my hostess assures me they are generally not killed or moved away.
Cars, cars, cars, some of the older models still spewing fumes that choke the air.
Traffic, even at 2:00 a.m., is horrid. Lanes are a just a suggestion, horn blowing is required, whether to say "watch out" "don't get in my lane" "I'm moving", or, presumably, just to say "hi". I never know why the horn, so I am surmising.
Beggars who see you in a car and literally bang on the windows so hard, you fear it might break. My hostess tells me it is only because they see a tourist in the car.
All kinds of people. Delhi has 18 million people in it. There is no escape, and the concept of personal space is completely alien to them. People bathing in the mud puddles. I only hope they don't drink it as well.
Security checks for vehicles are everywhere: to leave the airport, to cross state lines, even to get into the hotel parking lot/drop off area we had to stop, open the trunk, have a mirror stuck under the car to see if there was...what? Bombs? People? I'm not sure and afraid to ask. My hostess says this has been par for the course since the Mumbai bombings.
The understanding that you will be charged more just for being a "tourist" whether you are there on business or not. Seriously - they have separate (and mostly marked) prices for "Indians" and "Tourists". Indians will pay 10 Rupees to enter the Red Fort, Tourists pay 250. At least they don't hide it.
___________
Still.....people are nice. Polite for the most part....no, that's not the word....deferential. But there is no escaping that as a female tourist, I attract alot of attention, not all of it good. I see a few female tourists wandering about on their own, and wonder how they feel. Maybe it doesn't bother them, like it probably wouldn't have bothered me 20 years ago.
I have been fortunate enough that my India colleague has been so gracious to spend most of today showing me around, and will do so again tomorrow. Today we started late - about 3.30 - and we went to a crafts shopping area. So lovely! Beautiful cloths for saris, bed covers, table linens, silk scarves, wooden and brass Buddhas, elephants, Hindu gods and goddesses...a riot of color everywhere I turned. My colleague, Parna, loves bargaining - she says it relaxes her! and so I was able to get most things at half off the price being "suggested" - there were only a few items I walked away from. I only spent about 2,000 Rupees - that's maybe $50.00 We ate in another section of town, an area called Khan. I have no idea where the crafts market was, but it was huge.
Tomorrow, she is taking me to the Red Fort, one of the oldest settlements in Delhi, in the heart of Old Delhi. It is a Mughal fort, built by the first Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan. If we have time, we may go to Humayan's Tomb, which looks like a smaller Taj Mahal (it was built about 100 years before the Taj, and is commonly believed to have served at the model for the Taj, although, unlike the Taj, it is built of red sandstone and not white marble). Parna tells me that on the road to the Red Fort, we are likely to see cattle and camels on the highway with the cars, and "if we are lucky, an elephant". Now that would be a site to see!
I am tired. It's been 15 years since I've traveled 25 hours to get someplace, and I've forgotten how much it drains you, especially when you yourself are 15 years older. If you are curious - Delhi is 10.5 hours ahead of EDT. It was odd calling Colin to tell him I'd arrived safely and going to bed shortly and it was just the start of his day...
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