(Originally posted 8 September 2007)
Day one, after I was finished at the client's, I changed hotels and then walked down to the Art Museum (the Hamburger Kunsthalle). The building was started in 1869, and has been added on to and rebuilt after damage during WWII. I didn't go in, because it was closing in an hour and I hadn't exchanged my British pound notes for Euro's. I regret this, because I never did get in - and it is suppose to have the best collection of art in Germany.
The walk to the art Museum took me along Leine Ringhe, though a district called St. Georg. This is a trendy little area filled with cafes and small independent shops. I stopped in a few, including one called "Everest", which I went in to purely because my pet rabbit's name is Everest. It was filled with Amy type trinkets (read: silver semi-precious stone jewelry), so I was doubly happy with my decision. I walked around the Kunsthalle and back to the hotel via the Aun der Alster, a footpath along the Aubenalster (pronounced Aussenalster, or "Outer" lake Alaster). The path is 7 km around the lake and goes along some of the most expensive real estate in Germany. It is said that there are more German millionaires in Hamburg then anywhere else in Germany, and they sure do have some lovely houses! I stopped on a park bench to watch all the water activities: rowers, scullers, sailors and commuters of all sorts on the path going places after work.
Day 2, I decided to take a city bus tour, the kind that allows you to hop on and off at key places of interest. I find these are generally a good way to get to know the lay out of a city and soak up some history of the place, too. The tour first went north along the Aubenalster, through the wealthy neighborhoods along the lake. Even the mansions seemed dwarfed by the sheer number of trees everywhere and the parks that are all through the city. Then the bus took us through other neighborhoods, like Eppendorf, which is the artistic area of the city, before turning back to go into the city proper, past the Hamburg Alster-Arkaden, a lovely colonnaded area overlooking a...pond? lake? filled with swans and other water fowl. Swans are the symbol of Hamburg, because in the 1400's, the "Free Hanseatic State of Hamburg" allowed private citizens to own swans, usually only allowed by royalty to own, as a symbol of their freedom. Consequently, there are alot of swans and they are well cared for and protected. The tour then turned into the Rathaus area, which is the traditional market and the town hall center. Next, we took a turn for the worse, as we entered in to the infamous Reeperbahn, which looked pretty tame at 2:00 in the afternoon, but only because it was still asleep. The Reeperbahn is the pleasure district and filled with shops of a dubious nature and a red light district with ladies of easy virtues. It is also famous because the Beatles first received international attention by playing in one of the clubs in the Reeperbahn, which today is one of the "theatres" featuring, at it's most tame, table dancing. I will say no more on a family website. From the seedy part of town, we went to Altona, which was once a Danish state! As such, it has and always has had, a tolerance for freedom of religion and culture that still exists today. We went past the oldest Jewish cemetery in Germany, dating back to the 1600's. Today Altona is still ethnically and culturally diverse. The town hall (it is still officially a separate city, although now German) was once the train station which linked Altona to Copenhagen. Next, we went south to the port area, still a busy place. Of special interest is the Speicherstadt, or shipping warehouses, which are all built with their lower levels right against the water of the canals to store all sorts of goods, usually spices, oriental carpets, etc. It is still in use today. I got off the bus here and wandered around the area. I walked up to the Deichstrasse, which has the oldest houses in Hamburg left remaining, then back up to the Rathaus, where I did some shopping before catching the tour bus again to finish the tour. The tour took us past St. Michaelis, considered to be one of the most important Protestant baroque buildings. The steeple is over 132 meters high, and is also on one of the highest points in the city. You can walk up 432 stairs to the tower to have fabulous views of the city (but I decided not to).
The last day was this morning (Saturday). I only had a few hours, so I decided to take a boat tour of the lakes Alster (Binnenalster, or inner lake, and Aubenalster). It was a lovely cruise and the waterfront properties and numerous sailing and rowing clubs dotted the shore lines. When the tour was done, I tried to find some souvenir shops, but there didn't seem to be any. I would ordinarily think this a good thing - but it sure isn't so good when you want to buy souvenirs! I walked back to the hotel and caught a taxi to the airport.
Overall, I think Hamburg is a lovely city and well worth a visit. There is alot of business in Hamburg, so if you ever go for business, spend an extra day or two if you can to tour. You won't be disappointed.
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